- Panel making “tutorial”

Not the best or most beautiful way, just my way :-)

Read this more like a “lesson learned” then an instruction.

- Overview and goal

I started up with high expectations but rather fast found that both cost and time needed were over my possibilities

Ended up with the goal to make panels modular, look-alike, use low-cost available components and trade perfection for functionality. That’s said, and it’s really what states the expectations for the rest of this “guide”. Lets get on to it .. (Please disregard bad spelling / grammar and quality of pics)

Object in this case is the A-10A Tape panel (CTVS/AVTR=CockpitTeleVisionSensor/AirborneVideoTapeRecorder) used as example

# What’s the size of the panel

# Select what switches, indicators etc to use

# Interfacing and connectivity design

# Draw the panel

 # Background

 # Guides

 # Baseplate

 # Lightpanel

 # Overlay

# Verify your work

# Prep for the cutter

# Interface and getting the pieces together.

# Do it yourself approach Lightpanel

# First step was: What’s the size of the panel

NATO standard panels Baseplate width are 5”3/4 or 146,05 mm.The height comes in increments of 0.0375” (same as dzuz increments) but you would like to adjust the Baseplate height to some degree to allow a gap between individual panels if use real dzuz rails.

You find excellent reference material on viperpits.org on NATO panel standards

Ex: Standard dimensions of panels (thickness and Dzuz holes)

http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=352.0

With the height increment, use a spreadsheet calc application and get to max sizes as this

Inches	mm
0,375	9,53
0,750	19,05
1,125	28,58
1,500	38,10
1,875	47,63
2,250	57,15
2,625	66,68

And continue as far applicable (note that it’s the app that “evens” the second decimal Since my setup isn’t with dzuz rails, I get a bit of freedom to deviate from the real thing

# Select what switches, indicators etc to use

Get the size needed for Baseplate and Lightpanel cutout and countersink for washers, nuts and other details. Also check that size needed for each object doesn’t block other objects. Easily forgotten when focusing in getting every object in the correct spot while using not original stuff. Been there, will be visiting the area again ;-)

Rear view of my IFF panel as an example:

For low cost three pos switches, these are normal on-off-on (not on-on-on). If you plan to have them to activate functions in all three positions, remember to verify that your interface software is able to simulate the middle position and activate keyed input to the sim accordingly.

# Interfacing and connectivity design

A more basic quiz is how you plan to connect/cable your panels. Depending on choice you might need to add place to hold the interface cards or likewise to your design.

# Draw the panel

Get hold of (if possible) a pilot handbook with scale pics of the panels you target (or likewise info) if the real piace isn’t available.

## Background

Make a screen shot of the panel and you end up with something like this

Transfer that info a drawing application, preferable one that has can handle layers.

I start with creating 8 layers seen in bottom right corner

Scale (symmetrical) it up to reach the known width of 146 mm (yupp, I cut of, 05 mm here). Read the height of the panel against the increment scale above to see if it needs to be adjusted. Also remember to add each object to the assigned layer (background in this case)

Picture below is made in Microsoft Visio,

Create a rectangle and with the “size” dialog box, set it to same as your background pic. To make it easier to keep track of objects later on, fill it with a color and set the transparence to aprox 50%. Bind it to the Baseplate “layer”.

Now align the Baseplate on top of your background (use the embedded function to get an exact match)

## The “guides”

Draw thin lines corresponding to the center of each object cross the pic, assign them to the “Guides” layer

Note that this is according to my first approach, later on I created a raster of guide lines according to dzuz measurements, grouped the raster and apply on top of the pic, aligned and centered to ease the process

## Baseplate

Now the fun part starts. Grab the size info the switches, indicators you plan to use.

Draw symbols for the cutout needed for them, tie them to same layer they apply (Baseplate in this case) and use the align function to, yes, align them to the grid raster of the guides layer.

For larger items such rotaries, add the dimension also of the total width to avoid placing stuff to close to each other. It’s very frustration when populating the finished panel and you find the space isn’t sufficient enough.. trust me 

## Lightpanel

Select the Baseplate, duplicate it, fill it with another color, tie it to the “Lightpanel” layer and then align it to the Baseplate. Note that the real world Lightpanel is notch smaller then the Baseplate (see link above), adjust the size of it accordingly if needed.

Repeat same process again for switches etc cutout but in this case, tie the symbols to the Lightpanel layer and align them to either (or both in sequence) the guide raster or the symbols in the Baseplate layer. For objects to countersink (i.e. not cut through) such as screws, nuts etc to be hidden below the Lightpanel, I use dotted lines.

## “Overlay”

The texture and graphics on top of the Lightpanel, here you need to give some though of how the Lightpanel will be manufactured. I use a printout on adhesive inkjet photo paper but even if you going for CNC production, it’s easier to start with’em in a separate layer.

Select either the Baseplate or Lightpanel rectangle, duplicate it and tie it to the Overlay layer. Fill it with black color and align it to the Lightpanel. Add the text and symbols to the Overlay layer. Verify the position is correct with your choice of switches etc, use the background as guide but don’t totally trust the position showed there. Check also a pic of the real thing if possible.

Choice of font may be a challenge. I use included Franklin Gothic Medium but if you go for CNC production you probably would select the correct font from the start. Search the viperpits forum other flight forums for more details.

# Verify your work

Before continuing to the cutting the panels, make a printout of each layer. Glue them to some piece of cardboard and check that they do align. Verify also that the switches etc do fit and aren’t placed to close to each other or block other stuff below or above the panel. If questionable that space is sufficient, cut out the holes and install the gears.

Example from Fuel panel verification

# Prep for the cutter

So, what if you want to have the panel’s cutout or get “CNC’d”….

(Note.. never had any panels with texture or countersinked areas gone through this process, just flat straight cut so you have to verify what the prereqs is in that case). Your tool also must be able to export your graphic to a format usable (Visio can do .dxf)

Back to the layer of your choice. Lets say it is the Lightpanel.

Select to show layer “Lightpanel” and the now empty “Lightpanel_cutout”

Mark/select all objects in the Lightpanel layer, select Duplicate, Group them as one object, tie the new group to Lightpanel_cutout layer. Align the group to the Lightpanel rectangle.

Then hide the “Lightpanel” layer

Select the object in Lightpanel_cutout, Select ungroup and while all objects now are selected, once again tie them to the “Lightpanel_cutout” layer. Sounds intriguing? (Reason is that Visio objects loose the layer info when group/ungroup commands is made, thanks Bill…)

Select the panel rectangle, hold down shift and then select all other objects (you intend to punch out of the big rectangle) and from “shape” menu, select “subtract”, and you end up with something like this:

For object like Lightpanel dzuz cutout, you need to create a template that suit your needs (add a circle to a rectangle to get a ) I made a mistake here for the rotary switch hole but the process can be repeated. Think you get the picture. Note that the six tiny holes were intended for placing LEDs for backlight of the panel. Didn’t pursue that option but all my Baseplates been cut in Aluminum with this method and prepared for adding back lighted Lightpanels in the future.

Use the “Corner Rounding” tool to add a small radius to avoid 90 degrees clean corners. It will strengthen the panel and avoid risk of it breaking when cut / CNC’d.

Save (only) that layer as .dxf and you ready to send it to a cutter together with info of true size. You might have to copy it to a separate document first to avoid Visio to add garbage to the file.

Baseplate “cut-out” looks like this

# Interface and getting the pieces together.

Place your switches/indicators etc on the Baseplate.

I use OpenCockpits IOcard in/out put breakup cards http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/inputs-connection-p-70.html for each panels as needed (It’s the same PCB for both In and Outputs with the 40 pin connector soldered in different sockets). Bought a batch these PCBs without any components. Besides cutting the cost it also made it possible to of angled connectors and to solder connection to switches etc. But there’s a catch, the original orientation of the 40 pin socket is the “wrong” when using angled connector pointing out to the edge of the PCB you either have to adjust for the pin “swap” (even and odd pins change place) OR cut an opening for the male cable connector guide on the other side of the female connector. Last one is easier but remember to seat the cable the correct way. (Been there and will be visiting the same area again ) Getting the cable oriented the “correct” way make it correspond to the port labeling on the PCB also.

To fixate the PCBs to Baseplate, here is the way I do it.

3mm threaded rod cut to aprox 8 and 12 cm, a couple of washers and nuts.

Cut it and file the edges to aprox 45 degrees to preserve the thread.

Get a couple of M3 steel spacers, use a puncher to fix the center drill point. The wooden high tech hammer is to “nudge” the vise to correct position.

Insert the threaded rod far enough to allow space for the small bolt and lock the position by twisting the large and small nut together

Fasten the poles to the Baseplate. Add a shrink tubing and then rest of stuff. Adjust the distance for the PCB and fixate it with the two small nuts. Solder the connections to the PCB input card) in this case) to the desired ports (leave enough free slack to the cables to allow some maneuverability) and then fasten the PCB to the holders.

Same procedure goes for the output board. I flip it left or right depending on In or Output PCB

Above right is the extension cable for the 7-segment display PCB. In this case it will be powered from the UHF panel placed IOcard display interconnect board.

Indicators used (www.elfa.se 31-121.025 manufacturer EAO) are a lot bigger then the original piece. I got a batch of these from eBay some time ago. Only real problem beside the size diff is they have 12 V light bulbs and I need 5 V LEDs instead. Found this way to solve the issue…

Got the LED, a plastic distance (with separate chambers for the anode and cathode). I cut the distance to correct length. Sliced it from bottom sideways 4 mm for the cathode and bent it upwards. Anode was curled with a needle nose pliers and cut to the correct length.

# Do it yourself Lightpanel approach

“Cut, cut , cut, cut…” as Michael Palin, of Monty Python gang as the frustrated (and murderous) haircutter in one of the Flying Circus sketches, said … anyway, he went on telling the dream of his life, To go into the wild, earning his living up in French Colombia, cutting trees (and wearing high heals). The Lumberjack song, so now from haircut to the panelcut…

Example here is the Lightpanel.

Select the “Lightpanel” layer, select all objects, Duplicate and then Group. Move the group further down and flip it horizontal then make a printout on paper

Verify that you got the correct size, cut out the picture with a scalpel or scissor and glue it on to a piece of PVC. I use 5 mm thickness due to available material but you might wonna add a bit more to that. See link above for original measurements.

(But first, make a printout non-mirrored and cut it to verify things look ok before going on.

Make another printout (mirrored) and glue it onto the PVC plate

I use “3M Remount”, a removable adhesive spray to allow paper to be reseated or removed afterwards.

Grab that piece and apply it to a high quality manual CNC equivalent tool, or rather a drill press in my case ;-)

Adjust the height of the board to allow swap of drills without need to adjust.

Fasten a board to the vise. Use a Forstner or Step bit drill to find the center of one of the holes, while fixating the Lightpanel with the drill lever held down firmly, clamp the PVC plate firmly with a welding pliers.

Release the level, double-check that you found the center of the hole.

Switch to a drill with correct diameter (if a correct sized Forstner drill isn’t available) and drill the hole.

For objects needed to be countersink, do the same procedure,

Start with a “Forstner” to find the center. Swap to a regular drill. Cut the hole, Swap back to the “Forstner”. Lower the drill until contact with the Lightpanel and adjust the “stop” to get the correct depth settings. Then drill to the stop. I try to get just below 4 mm depth to drill.

When only countersink holes, the point of the drill will leave a notch on the “topside” of the material that you need to fix (more info below)

For the square areas to cut… drill a hole inside the area and use a small bow saw with a blade fir for the material to cut it out. (You need one with easily detachable blade)

Verify the Lightpanel versus the Baseplate with controls in place. Trim and fix with best ability

Flip it over to sunny side up and use a flat nosed puncher (not totally sure it’s the correct word here) to flatten the notches from the drill, seen on topside

Smooth the sides and corners with a fine grade file, clean the piece and give it some paint.

# The “Overlay”

I make a printout of the “Overlay” area in an Inkjet printer on self-adhesive A4 photo paper.

After the printout dried, I spray a thin layer of protective coating on top.

Cut it out with a scissor (yupp I know, sounds kinda crud), align the Overlay to the Lightpanel (easy going, be sure to have it as aligned to the Lightpanel before you nudge it more firmly

Use a scalpel to remove any excessive material. And last, use a black marker pen to hide the white cut areas in the paper after the scalpel made its work

The small transparent sheet seen in pics here is an inkjet printout (80% gray) to cover the 7-Segment display. Super glue it to the Lightpanel and then trim with a scalpel. The Lightpanel isn’t that light gray in real life

And finally.. ready to go